Virtually every racecar I check has the balance bar improperly adjusted. Keep in mind that it works very much like a teeter-totter and if you want to be truly able to adjust your line pressures effectively, you must first adjust the assembly correctly. Here is the proper method:

Before adjusting the bar, screw the heims into position on the balance rod, until they are the same distance apart as the master cylinders. The push rods should be parallel to each other from the time they leave the masters until they hook to the heims on the balance rod.

1. Consider the master cylinder bore sizes and the caliper piston sizes and number. Determine which master cylinder will use the most stroke to fill the caliper.

2. Lengthen the push rod on the master that will use the most stroke or shorten the push rod on the one that will move the least, until you have the balance bar rod perfectly perpendicular to the push rods while the pedal is being depressed. It does not make any difference how cocked the balance rod is when the pedal is not in use, but it is critical that it be properly adjusted for the position it is in, when being used. Check for proper operation as follows:

1. Install your Brake Man pressure gages into the bleed screw port of the caliper. (brake bias gages are essential to "tuning" the brake system. If you prefer dash mount gages, be sure to use a shut off valve, so that they can be shut off during the race. They rob pedal travel and should not be used during races.) Dial the gage to the left and measure the pressure front and rear, with the front gage holding on 1000 psi. Dial to height, 3-4 turns and measure again. This will tell you how much pressure differentiation you can count on during the race. Record your front and rear pressures after the race is over, so you will know where to start next time.